The Journey Begins

Our journey commenced in Portland, Oregon, with flights to Chicago, Illinois, then Munich, Germany, and finally Marseille, France. As our flight arrived several hours before the 3:00 pm embarkation, we opted to forgo the included transfer and instead took public transportation, granting us a couple of hours to explore Arles.

From Marseille airport, a brief 15-minute bus ride brought us to the train station, costing a mere 1.20 Euros each.

Next, we boarded a train to Arles, with tickets priced at 28 Euros each and a travel time of approximately 45 minutes.

The port was conveniently located just a 5-minute walk from the train station. After dropping off our luggage and enjoying refreshments in the lounge, we ventured out to discover the city.

In our two hours, we strolled along the riverfront and into the city center, a 15-minute walk from the ship. We wandered through the streets, marveled at the magnificent Roman arena (impossible to miss!), and savored a glass of wine in one of the city’s squares, immersing ourselves in Arlesian life.

We also visited a wine shop and met the delightful owner, who specialized in local wines crafted predominantly by women winemakers. Naturally, we purchased a bottle to enjoy back on the ship!

Shortly before 3:00 pm, we returned to the ship, checked into our room, and unpacked. See our full review of the AmaKristina for photos of the ship and our room.

A Day Immersed in Arlesian Charm

I had already fallen for the enchanting French city of Arles during our brief initial exploration. This second day only solidified its place in my heart.

AmaWaterways typically offers at least two excursion options each day. On this first full morning, we could choose between an Arles walking tour, a bike tour, or a Van Gogh walking tour.

Arles Morning Excursion: A Journey Through Art and History

We opted for the Arles walking tour, commencing at 9:00 am. Our guide, an artist and long-time local, radiated enthusiasm for Vincent Van Gogh.

As we strolled through the streets towards the city center, we paused at locations where Van Gogh painted some of his most iconic works, including Starry Night on the Rhone River and Café Terrace at Night.

Arles is a truly captivating city, brimming with charm and Roman heritage. The Roman Arena stands majestically in the heart of town, surrounded by remnants of Roman rule, such as the Roman theatre and the Church of Saint Trophime.

Arles Afternoon: Relaxation and Macaron Magic

Instead of an afternoon excursion, we opted to explore the AmaKristina and allow our bodies to adjust after our long journey.

The weather was glorious, with temperatures in the 70s, so we spent the afternoon on the sundeck. I had the entire heated pool with its swim-up bar all to myself! There are ample lounge chairs and a fun oversized chessboard for those feeling playful.

At 3:00 pm, we attended a macaron demonstration in the Chef’s Table room. The ship’s pastry chef, Zoltan, expertly guided us through the process, demonstrating the art of piping macaron batter and filling.

I appreciate that they offer onboard activities as an alternative to offshore excursions.

Exploring History and Flavors in Avignon

Avignon, known as the City of Popes, was home to seven popes during the 14th century, residing in the Palais des Papes.

In the morning, we had the choice of a walking tour and Papal Palace visit, a “Tastes of Avignon” excursion, or an Avignon bike tour. We opted for the “Tastes of Avignon” experience.

In the afternoon, we had the option to visit the Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman aqueduct bridge.

Tastes of Avignon: A Culinary Journey

At 9:00 am, we met our guide outside the ship and walked within the 800-year-old stone walls that encircle Avignon.

Our first stop was Les Halles d’Avignon, a large indoor food market brimming with local specialties. Here, we enjoyed a cheese and wine tasting, as well as a tapenade tasting. Afterwards, we had approximately 40 minutes to explore independently.

We loved wandering through Les Halles d’Avignon, feasting our eyes on the abundance of local delicacies. The market features a vast fresh seafood section with numerous vendors along one side. We were also captivated by the displays at the various pastry stands, cheese stands showcasing hundreds of cheese varieties, and an impressive herbs and spices stand located at the back of the market.

As wine enthusiasts, we appreciated browsing the small wine shops and discovering local French wines that are rarely found in the United States, all at incredibly affordable prices! If you’re a wine lover, be sure to leave room in your checked luggage for bottles to take home.

Our next stop was a local sweets shop, offering classic cookies/biscuits, sugared gelées, and other tempting treats.

We then had a little over an hour to explore Avignon on our own before returning to the ship.

Pont du Gard: A Roman Marvel

After lunch on the ship, we boarded a bus for a short 40-minute drive to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Pont du Gard.

This Roman aqueduct bridge is an ancient engineering masterpiece, truly incredible to witness up close. We had ample time to cross the main level and hike to the top. While you cannot walk across the top level, the views are spectacular.

Your tour also includes tickets to the museum at Pont du Gard. We briefly visited the museum and noted two restaurants on-site for those with time for a leisurely lunch.

A Delightful Truffle Hunting Experience

Day four was a genuine treat!

We began with a 50-minute bus ride to the hilltop village of Grignan. There, we met Christian Allegre, a 5th-generation truffle farmer. Accompanied by his trusty, trained truffle hunting dog, Ollie, he shared his family’s history and explained how they train their dogs to hunt for truffles.

While some places use pigs to hunt for truffles, they use dogs here in Provence. Apparently, pigs were used long ago, but they invariably ate the truffles.

We watched as Christian and Ollie demonstrated how they hunt for truffles in their oak orchard. Farmers plant oak trees due to the symbiotic relationship between oaks and truffles.

During our visit, Ollie unearthed two truffles. I’m quite sure I saw him eat one, but the other large truffle was saved.

Afterwards, we went inside and sampled some of the estate wines from their vineyard, as well as truffle butter and truffle oil made from their truffles.

A Sweet and Savory Excursion

In Tournon, only morning excursions were available, as we sailed to our next destination in the afternoon.

Our morning excursion options included:

• A steam train ride
• Wine and chocolate tasting
• A Tain-l’Hermitage hike and wine tasting

We chose the wine and chocolate pairing excursion at Le Château de Tournon. As with most morning excursions, we met our guide at 9:00 am outside the ship and walked a short 10-minute distance to the chateau.

Built between the 15th and 16th centuries, Le Château de Tournon houses a local museum and offers stunning city views.

Our guide, Manu (short for Emmanuelle), is a member of the Cave de Tain, a top wine cooperative founded in 1933 that encompasses wine from five prestigious Northern Rhône Crus. Approximately 260 grape growers are part of Cave de Tain; some are 5th and 6th generation growers.

Manu guided us through a tasting of three wines, paired with three chocolates. I especially enjoyed that one of the wines was a white, an unusual pairing with chocolate.

It was an educational, enjoyable, and delectable tasting experience.

Walking in the Footsteps of Ancient Romans

In Vienne, we had three options for a morning excursion. The afternoon was spent sailing to Lyon.

Our morning excursion options included:

• A “Footsteps of Ancient Romans” walking tour
• A Mount Pipet Hike
• A ViaRhôna bike tour.

We opted for the walking tour, which did not disappoint. Our tour followed the paths of ancient Romans, stopping at the well-preserved Temple of Augustus and Livia. We also saw the remains of a 2,000-year-old Roman assembly, the Cybèle garden, and the stunning Saint Maurice Cathedral, a Gothic church that took over 500 years to construct.

My partner and I both loved Vienne, not just because we discovered four incredible pastry shops within half a mile of each other (although the food options were a delightful find!).

The striking contrast between modern-day living and beautifully preserved Roman ruins and Gothic architecture was fascinating. The city was lively and bustling without being overly crowded. It’s a lovely French city we would definitely revisit.

Exploring the Culinary Delights of Lyon

As we sailed on from Vienne, the tranquil rural French countryside transitioned into bustling city streets and towering buildings neatly arranged in rows.

Lyon, the second-largest city in France after Paris, has a distinct vibe all its own.

For our final full day, we had both morning and afternoon excursion options in Lyon. Our morning excursion options included:

• A Lyon city tour
• A Les Halles Paul Bocuse Market Tour
• A Lyon bike tour.

Les Halles Paul Bocuse: A Food Lover’s Paradise

Lyon is a true foodie haven. With more than 90 Michelin-starred restaurants, it boasts the second-highest number in the world (Paris is #1 with approximately 120). As the birthplace of culinary legend Paul Bocuse, visiting the food hall named after him was an unmissable experience.

Larger than the Les Halles d’Avignon we visited earlier in the week, Les Halles Paul Bocuse also featured an abundance of local Lyon delicacies. We indulged in the famous Lyon Saucisson sausages, local cheeses, fresh breads, and a renowned regional praline tart.

Most butcher shops carried Bresse chicken, a famous Lyonnaise chicken raised free-range and identified by its signature blue feet. These chickens are sold in markets with their heads still attached, though you can request to have them removed.

We purchased some treats that we thought would travel well back home (always macarons!), and then returned to the AmaKristina.