IMPORTANT UPDATE: The beloved Smallwares restaurant, a true gem in Portland’s culinary landscape, has since closed its doors. However, the visionary behind its groundbreaking cuisine, Chef Johanna Ware, continues to innovate with her exciting new establishment, Wares. This article serves as a fond retrospective, celebrating the distinct and unforgettable dining experiences that made Smallwares an iconic destination for adventurous eaters.
A Culinary Retrospective: The Inventive “Inauthentic Asian” Delights of Smallwares Portland
In the vibrant tapestry of the culinary world, there are moments when one seeks the comforting embrace of the familiar – a restaurant where every dish is a known quantity, offering predictable satisfaction. Yet, there are also those exhilarating times when the soul craves the utterly unexpected – to be surprised, challenged, and profoundly impressed by a dining experience that pushes boundaries. For many years, Smallwares in Portland stood as a shining example of this latter category, a beacon of culinary innovation that consistently delivered an astonishing and deeply memorable journey for its patrons.
My multiple visits to Smallwares were always filled with a delightful sense of anticipation. Each time, I stepped inside with an open mind, intentionally avoiding any preconceived notions about what to order. This approach invariably paid off, as I consistently left feeling completely blown away by the artistry and flavors presented on each plate. It was more than just a meal; it was an exploration, leaving me utterly content and eager for the next discovery.
Smallwares: A Legacy of Innovation and Chef Johanna Ware’s Vision
Gracefully situated on the corner of NE 46th and Fremont in the charming Beaumont neighborhood, Smallwares forged a unique identity by boldly describing its cuisine as “inauthentic Asian.” This wasn’t merely a label; it was a promise of a culinary philosophy that respectfully borrowed, playfully blended, and brilliantly reinterpreted flavors and techniques from across diverse Asian traditions and beyond. From the moment guests stepped inside, the decor itself offered a tantalizing hint of the gastronomic adventure awaiting them: a whimsical yet sophisticated blend of Chinese, Korean, Middle Eastern, and Pacific Northwest styles, all harmoniously creating an inviting and intriguing atmosphere that set the stage for discovery.
At the very heart of Smallwares’ groundbreaking success was Chef Johanna Ware, a culinary powerhouse recognized by Food & Wine magazine as a Best New Chef nominee for two consecutive years. In my humble estimation, Chef Ware stands as one of Portland’s most quietly inventive and incredibly hardworking chefs. Her unwavering dedication to her craft and her profound passion for food were evident in every dish she conceived. I’ve had the distinct pleasure of tasting her food at various culinary events throughout the years, in addition to my many visits to both Smallwares and Barwares. Her creations consistently impressed me, not only for their impeccable presentation and astonishing depth of flavor but also for her humble demeanor and the clear, heartfelt passion she infused into every plate she served. Her approach celebrated the inherent quality of ingredients while daring to reimagine their traditional roles, resulting in a dining experience that was both comforting and exhilaratingly new.
Crafted Cocktails and Exceptional Libations
Whether patrons chose to dine in the lively front restaurant section, known simply as Smallwares, or preferred the more intimate and spirited back bar room, cleverly dubbed Barwares (a testament to their playful branding!), the experience was incomplete without first exploring their exceptional cocktail program. Smallwares understood that dining was a holistic sensory experience, and their meticulously curated libations were an essential component of this journey.
During one particularly memorable dinner, my husband gravitated towards his timeless classic – a perfectly executed Vesper Martini – a clear indicator of the bar’s mastery of traditional mixology. He also savored a crisp Hite, a smooth, clean Korean lager that provided a refreshing counterpoint to the evening’s vibrant dishes. Meanwhile, I found myself delightfully torn, unable to immediately settle on a choice from either their innovative cocktail menu or their thoughtfully assembled wine list, which featured an impressive selection. Ultimately, I opted for the Smallwares Mocktail, a refreshing blend of grenadine, ginger, lemon, and soda, which I decided to enhance with a subtle splash of vodka. The result was nothing short of divine – a beautifully balanced, zesty, and utterly satisfying drink that perfectly harmonized with the evening’s culinary explorations. The bar team’s dedication to quality and creativity was just as evident as the kitchen’s, ensuring every sip was as memorable as every bite.
Shareable Small Plates: A Journey of Culinary Exploration
The true genius of Smallwares unfolded through its philosophy of shareable small plates. This communal dining approach was designed to encourage each person at the table to select one or two dishes, allowing everyone to collectively experience an expansive array of styles, textures, and flavors. It transformed dinner into an engaging conversation, a shared adventure of discovery where every dish invited comment and appreciation. A crucial tip for navigating this exciting and sometimes unfamiliar menu: if an ingredient catches your eye but its purpose is unclear, or if you’re uncertain whether a dish will suit your palate, never hesitate to engage with your server. The staff at Smallwares were exceptionally knowledgeable and genuinely passionate, acting as invaluable guides who could expertly steer you towards selections perfectly tailored to your individual preferences, significantly enhancing your overall dining adventure.
A consistent standout and an absolute must-try was the scallop sashimi, elegantly priced at $11. This dish was a masterclass in delicate preparation and breathtaking presentation. Thinly sliced, pristine scallops were artfully arranged and enhanced with a fragrant yuzu butter, the aromatic complexity of vadouvan, a sprinkle of savory bottarga, and the vibrant freshness of shiso. Each bite was a symphony of umami, citrus, and a subtle oceanic sweetness, perfectly demonstrating Chef Ware’s ability to elevate simple, high-quality ingredients into an extraordinary culinary experience.
Another dish that consistently exceeded expectations was the fried kale, priced at $10. These humble greens were transformed into something truly special, coated in a light, impossibly crispy tempura batter. They retained a delightful crunch and a perfect balance of saltiness, largely thanks to the ingenious addition of candied bacon. The subtle hint of fresh mint woven throughout provided a refreshing counterpoint, cutting through the richness and leaving a clean, invigorating finish. This was the kind of dish that could easily become a delightful obsession, so addictive that one could happily indulge in it all evening long without tiring of its unique charms.
The brussels sprouts, an $8 offering, presented yet another brilliant example of Smallwares’ inventive spirit. These often-maligned vegetables were utterly transformed, prepared with a rich, umami-laden XO sauce that imparted a depth of flavor both surprising and deeply satisfying. The addition of crunchy almond brittle provided a fantastic textural contrast, while nigella seeds offered a subtle, aromatic finish that lingered pleasantly. I also recall ours possibly being topped with finely shredded basil, further enhancing its aromatic complexity. Like so many of the seemingly simple dishes at Smallwares, what appeared straightforward on the menu quickly revealed intricate layers of flavor with each successive bite, a true testament to Chef Ware’s nuanced understanding of ingredient harmony and unexpected combinations.
Without a shadow of a doubt, the Mapo Dofue dish, priced at $10, was the absolute highlight of my visits – a truly revelatory and unforgettable experience. This dish perfectly encapsulated the “inauthentic Asian” ethos of Smallwares and profoundly demonstrated why embracing menu choices beyond one’s comfort zone was always rewarded here. Based purely on its menu description, it might not have been my immediate selection, yet it proved to be nothing short of utterly amazing and deeply satisfying!
The Mapo Dofue offered a captivating journey of textures and tastes, a true exploration in every spoonful. Your spoon would first break through the rich, savory top layer of mapo dofu, a silky tofu stewed in a complex, subtly spicy bean sauce. Then, a softer, more delicate layer of creamy egg custard would emerge, adding a comforting and unexpected element. As you continued to scoop, you’d gather fresh, vibrant scallions, introducing a crisp, aromatic bite. The moment all these distinct layers converged on the tongue was pure magic – a crazy delicious collision of fresh textures, robust flavors, and comforting warmth. It was Chinese Sichuan cuisine elegantly reinterpreted as casual comfort food, a masterful blend of Asian influences that Smallwares executed with unparalleled skill. Even now, as I reminisce and write, the memory of that dish stirs a powerful craving; it was a dish I knew I would most definitely order again on any future visit, a testament to its enduring appeal.
Our culinary exploration often culminated with the perfectly prepared hangar steak, a generously portioned dish for $17. This incredibly tender cut of meat was served alongside crisp, fresh greens, brightened by a zesty ginger black vinegar, and given an unexpected depth and umami kick with the inclusion of boquerones, or marinated anchovies. The hangar steak itself was cooked to perfection, showcasing remarkable tenderness, and the portion size was ideal for sharing between two people, allowing for a satisfying conclusion to a diverse and flavor-packed meal without overwhelming the palate. The harmonious balance of acidity from the vinegar, the freshness of the greens, and the subtle brininess of the anchovies elevated the steak beyond a simple protein, making it another shining example of Smallwares’ inventive approach to familiar ingredients.
Happy Hour and Special Offerings: Unbeatable Value and Unique Experiences
Smallwares was not merely a destination for adventurous dinners; it also cultivated a vibrant and highly popular happy hour scene. From 5 PM to 7 PM each evening, and again for a late-night happy hour, the restaurant offered enticing specials that consistently drew in a lively crowd. Witnessing the happy hour patrons around us, their tables laden with tempting dishes, served as a powerful, unspoken endorsement. Every item looked utterly delicious and undeniably inviting, showcasing the same quality and creativity as the main menu but at an even more accessible price point. And, from my admittedly eager eavesdropping – made easy by the convivial, somewhat close-knit table arrangements – I gathered nothing but enthusiastic and happy reviews. It was clear that the happy hour menu upheld the same high standards, offering an excellent opportunity to experience Smallwares’ magic.
Beyond the regular happy hour, Smallwares extended its welcoming atmosphere to all diners, including families, by offering a dedicated kids menu that provided thoughtful options for younger palates. For those seeking a truly immersive and communal culinary experience, they also featured a unique family-style ssam menu. Ssam, a traditional Korean meal, is designed for shared enjoyment, where diners wrap various ingredients – including savory meats, fresh vegetables, and delectable condiments – in crisp leafy greens. This offering underscored Smallwares’ commitment to celebrating authentic Asian dining traditions while infusing them with their signature “inauthentic” twist, making for a truly memorable and interactive group experience.
Special Events: $1 Oysters and Portland Dining Month Participation
Smallwares was also an enthusiastic and active participant in Portland’s vibrant culinary calendar, notably taking part in prestigious events like Portland Dining Month. This annual celebration invited diners to explore new restaurants and savor multi-course meals at an incredible value. Smallwares’ participation meant that for a limited time, such as through March 31st during the event period, guests could enjoy a meticulously crafted three-course meal for just $29. Such initiatives were fantastic excuses to delve into the diverse Portland dining scene, and for those yet to experience Smallwares, their Portland Dining Month menu always presented an exceptional introduction to their inventive offerings. Checking their website for current specials and event participation was always highly recommended for prospective diners.
Furthermore, one highly anticipated weekly special that became a local favorite was “Monday $1 Oysters.” Every Monday, while supplies lasted, Smallwares offered fresh, briny oysters for just a dollar each. This immensely popular promotion was a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to providing both exceptional quality and outstanding value, often drawing enthusiastic crowds from across the city. For those planning to indulge in this fantastic deal, arriving early was always the savvy move to ensure a generous plate of these delectable bivalves, guaranteeing a perfect start to the week.
Smallwares: A Cherished Portland Dining Memory
In its time, Smallwares stood as a truly wonderful establishment, perfect for a diverse range of social and professional occasions. It was an ideal spot for gathering a small group of friends, offering a lively and engaging backdrop for shared laughter and culinary discovery. It provided a sophisticated yet relaxed setting, making it perfect for a memorable date night, fostering intimacy amidst exciting flavors and a vibrant atmosphere. Even for professional engagements, whether a casual work lunch or after-work drinks, Smallwares offered an environment that combined approachability with an undeniable sense of special occasion, leaving a lasting impression on all who visited.
While the physical doors of Smallwares have now closed, its innovative spirit and the culinary brilliance of Chef Johanna Ware undoubtedly live on through her exciting new establishment, Wares. For those who had the pleasure of experiencing it, Smallwares remains a cherished and significant memory in Portland’s rich and ever-evolving dining history, a place where “inauthentic Asian” truly meant authentically extraordinary.
This retrospective review is based on a complementary meal provided by the former Smallwares restaurant. As always, all opinions, observations, and accompanying photos are entirely my own and reflect my genuine experience. I exclusively highlight establishments, events, and products that I genuinely support and believe would resonate with my readers, offering an honest perspective.